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Solitaire prongs: four or six
A solitaire is one stone held in a head of prongs on a plain band. The only real decision is the prongs: four shows more stone, six holds it more securely, and the rest is proportion.
What it is
Prongs are small wires of metal that rise from the band, lean in to meet the girdle of the stone, and turn over its edge to hold it. In the studio they grow from the shoulders of the band, pass a thin gallery rail under the stone, and end in rounded tips. Four prongs sit at the corners of an imaginary square; six sit evenly around a round, oval or cushion.
Points and corners get V-prongs instead: a prong shaped to cradle a pear's tip or a princess cut's corner from both sides.
4-prong
Four claws hold the stone above the band.
6-prong
Six claws around a round, oval or cushion stone.
Why people love it
A solitaire shows the stone and nothing else. Four prongs let in the most light and show the most diamond; six keep a round stone looking perfectly round and hold it with a margin of safety. Either way it is the setting that never goes out of date and the easiest to resize, clean and pair with a band.
- 4-prong: Shows the most stone and lets in the most light.
- 4-prong: Suits elongated shapes, with a prong at each corner or point.
- 6-prong: The most secure prong setting: lose one and the stone still holds.
- 6-prong: Keeps a round stone looking round.
Trade-offs
With four prongs, lose one and the stone is loose, so a yearly check matters. Four can also make a round stone look slightly square from above. Six covers a little more of the stone and is not used on shapes with corners or points, where V-prongs take over.
- 4-prong: Lose one prong and the stone is loose; a prong check every year or two matters.
- 4-prong: Can make a round stone look slightly square.
- 6-prong: Covers a little more of the stone than four prongs.
- 6-prong: Not used on shapes with corners or points.
Who it suits
Anyone who wants the classic ring, who wants the stone to speak for itself, and who may want to change the band later. Six prongs for rounds of a carat and up; four for smaller rounds and for ovals and cushions when you want more light.
Sizes
| Diameter | Depth | Diamond · approx. |
|---|---|---|
| 5.0 mm | 3.1 mm | 0.47 ct |
| 5.5 mm | 3.4 mm | 0.62 ct |
| 6.0 mm | 3.7 mm | 0.80 ct |
| 6.5 mm | 4.0 mm | 1.02 ct |
| 7.0 mm | 4.3 mm | 1.28 ct |
| 7.5 mm | 4.6 mm | 1.57 ct |
| 8.0 mm | 4.9 mm | 1.91 ct |
| 8.5 mm | 5.2 mm | 2.29 ct |
| 9.0 mm | 5.5 mm | 2.71 ct |
Round diameters with their approximate diamond weights. Prongs are about 1 mm across for a one-carat stone and scale with it. Natural and lab-grown diamonds weigh the same. All figures approx.
What affects the cost
The stone sets most of the price; the head is a small amount of metal and the setting time. Platinum prongs cost more in metal than gold but hold stones very securely. Cathedral shoulders or a hidden halo add metal and time.
Every custom piece is quoted after a consultation; there are no posted prices for custom work.
Care
A diamond is the hardest thing you own, but the metal around it is not. Take the ring off for the gym, the garden and anything with a bar or a rope in it, and keep it away from chlorine and bleach, which attack gold alloys over time.
Clean it at home in warm water with a drop of dish soap and a soft toothbrush, rinse, and dry with a lint-free cloth. Once a year or so, have the prongs checked. Pacific Jewel rings come back to Sara for a clean and an inspection whenever you like.
Questions
Four or six prongs?
Four shows more stone and suits ovals, cushions and smaller rounds. Six is more secure and keeps a round looking round. The studio shows both.
How high should the setting be?
Low sits closest to the hand and snags least; medium leaves room for a straight band; high shows the stone from every side. See the heights in the studio.
What is a V-prong?
A prong shaped to cradle a point or a corner from both sides, used on pears, marquises, princess and radiant cuts.
How often should prongs be checked?
Once a year or so, and after any hard knock. Pacific Jewel rings come back to Sara for it whenever you like.