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Bezel setting
A bezel is a thin rim of metal that wraps the edge of the stone. It is the most protective setting there is, the smoothest to wear, and in the right proportions one of the most modern.
What it is
Instead of prongs, a collar of metal about half a millimeter thick follows the outline of the stone and is burnished over its edge. The collar sits on a short, tapered gallery that joins the band, so the stone sits low and nothing stands up to catch. A bezel can follow any shape: round, oval, emerald, marquise set east-west, princess.
Bezel
A thin metal rim wraps the stone’s edge.
Why people love it
Nothing catches on sweaters, gloves or hair. Points and corners are protected completely. The look is clean and low, and a bezel in yellow gold around a white stone has a warmth prongs do not give. It is the setting for people who work with their hands and never want to take the ring off.
- The most protective setting; nothing to catch on sweaters or gloves.
- Protects points and corners completely.
- Modern and low.
Trade-offs
The rim covers the stone's edge, so it faces up a touch smaller, and a little less light reaches the stone from the side. A bezel uses more metal than prongs, and resizing a ring with a large bezel takes more care. Once set, changing the stone means remaking the bezel.
- Covers the stone’s edge, so it can face up a touch smaller.
- A little less light from the side.
Who it suits
Someone with an active or hands-on life, someone who wants a modern, low ring, and anyone setting a pear, marquise or princess who would rather not think about the points.
Sizes
| Diameter | Depth | Diamond · approx. |
|---|---|---|
| 5.0 mm | 3.1 mm | 0.47 ct |
| 5.5 mm | 3.4 mm | 0.62 ct |
| 6.0 mm | 3.7 mm | 0.80 ct |
| 6.5 mm | 4.0 mm | 1.02 ct |
| 7.0 mm | 4.3 mm | 1.28 ct |
| 7.5 mm | 4.6 mm | 1.57 ct |
| 8.0 mm | 4.9 mm | 1.91 ct |
| 8.5 mm | 5.2 mm | 2.29 ct |
| 9.0 mm | 5.5 mm | 2.71 ct |
Round diameters with their approximate diamond weights; a bezel adds about 0.5 mm of metal around the outline. Natural and lab-grown diamonds weigh the same. All figures approx.
What affects the cost
The stone first. A bezel uses more metal than a prong head, which matters most in platinum, and takes skilled hand work to burnish evenly around the stone. The band itself is usually plain.
Every custom piece is quoted after a consultation; there are no posted prices for custom work.
Care
A bezel needs the least care of any setting. Clean it in warm soapy water with a soft brush around the rim. The metal rim itself can be polished when it wears, which it will over decades.
A diamond is the hardest thing you own, but the metal around it is not. Take the ring off for the gym, the garden and anything with a bar or a rope in it, and keep it away from chlorine and bleach, which attack gold alloys over time.
Questions
Does a bezel make the stone look smaller?
A touch, because the rim covers the edge. A thin bezel in a bright metal keeps the difference small.
Does a bezel reduce sparkle?
A little from the side; from above, a well-cut stone looks the same. The trade is for a ring that never catches.
Can a bezel be resized?
Yes, from the plain back of the band. Very wide bands and full bezels take more care; Sara checks before quoting.
Which shapes suit a bezel?
All of them. An east-west marquise and a square princess are two of the best-looking bezels there are.