Learn · Diamond and gemstone shapes

Round brilliant

The round brilliant is the shape most people picture when they say "diamond". It is cut for one thing above all: light. Fifty-seven or fifty-eight facets, laid out in proportions that have been refined for a century, send more light back to your eye than any other shape.

3D render of a round brilliant solitaire from the Pacific Jewel Design Studio

What it is

A round brilliant is a circular stone with a flat table on top, a crown of kite and star facets, a thin girdle around the edge, and a pavilion underneath cut to a point. Those pavilion angles are the reason it sparkles: they bounce light back up through the crown instead of letting it leak out the bottom.

Because the shape is symmetrical, a round looks the same from every direction on the hand. That is also why it matches almost any setting: four prongs, six prongs, a bezel, a halo, a hidden halo, a three-stone with any side shape. Nothing has to be designed around a point or a corner.

Round

The round brilliant: 57 or 58 facets cut for the most light return of any shape.

CAD rendering of a round solitaire in a four-prong head with a pavé band, modeled by Sara Lundquist
How Sara modeled it in CAD. Round solitaire with a pavé band. A setting study Sara modeled · CAD rendering

Why people love it

The round is the brightest cut there is, and the most forgiving to live with. It reads as a diamond from across a room, it sits low and symmetrical, and it never looks out of date. If you are not sure what shape you want, this is the safe answer, and a beautiful one.

It also holds its value best. Rounds are graded and traded in larger numbers than any other shape, so a well-cut round is easy to describe, easy to compare and easy to sell on later if it ever comes to that.

  • The brightest, most sparkling cut.
  • Easiest to match with any setting, band or wedding ring.
  • Holds its value best on the resale market.
A single round brilliant diamond resting on dark tree bark
A round brilliant diamond.

Trade-offs

A round costs the most per carat, because cutting a circle out of a rough crystal wastes the most material. A one-carat round also faces up a little smaller than a one-carat oval or pear, because its weight sits deeper in the pavilion rather than spread across the top.

Cut quality matters more here than in any other shape. A deep or shallow round loses the brightness that is the whole point, so Sara looks at the cut grade and the proportions before the color and clarity.

  • Costs the most per carat, because the cut wastes the most rough.
  • Looks a little smaller than elongated shapes of the same weight.

Who it suits

Anyone who wants the classic look, anyone who wants maximum sparkle, and anyone who plans to wear a straight wedding band beside the ring. It suits every hand and every finger length, and it works in every metal.

Sizes

DiameterDepthDiamond · approx.
5.0 mm3.1 mm0.47 ct
5.5 mm3.4 mm0.62 ct
6.0 mm3.7 mm0.80 ct
6.5 mm4.0 mm1.02 ct
7.0 mm4.3 mm1.28 ct
7.5 mm4.6 mm1.57 ct
8.0 mm4.9 mm1.91 ct
8.5 mm5.2 mm2.29 ct
9.0 mm5.5 mm2.71 ct

Round diameters and their approximate diamond weights at a typical 61% depth. A real stone varies with its cut; Sara confirms the exact weight from the certificate. Natural and lab-grown diamonds weigh the same. All figures approx.

What affects the cost

For a round, the cut grade sets the price more than people expect: two stones of the same carat, color and clarity can differ a lot if one is cut to excellent proportions and the other is not. Carat weight comes next, then color and clarity, then whether the stone is natural or lab-grown.

The setting adds the metal, the head, any pavé or halo stones and the hand-setting time. Sara quotes the whole piece after a consultation, once the stone and the design are chosen.

Every custom piece is quoted after a consultation; there are no posted prices for custom work.

Care

A diamond is the hardest thing you own, but the metal around it is not. Take the ring off for the gym, the garden and anything with a bar or a rope in it, and keep it away from chlorine and bleach, which attack gold alloys over time.

Clean it at home in warm water with a drop of dish soap and a soft toothbrush, rinse, and dry with a lint-free cloth. Once a year or so, have the prongs checked. Pacific Jewel rings come back to Sara for a clean and an inspection whenever you like.

Questions

How big is a one-carat round?

About 6.5 mm across. A 1.5 ct round is about 7.4 mm, and a 2 ct round is about 8.1 mm. The studio shows the millimeters and the carats side by side.

Four prongs or six on a round?

Four shows more of the stone; six holds it more securely and keeps the outline rounder. On a round of 1 ct or more, Sara usually suggests six.

Does a round look smaller than other shapes?

Slightly, at the same carat weight. Elongated shapes spread their weight across the top. If face-up size matters most, an oval or a marquise gives more at the same weight.

Will a straight wedding band sit flush against a round solitaire?

Usually, yes, at a medium or high setting height. A low setting may need a contoured band. Sara checks this in the CAD before anything is made.

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