Learn · Diamond and gemstone shapes
Oval
The oval has become the most asked-for fancy shape, and for good reason. It carries the sparkle of a round brilliant in a longer outline that looks larger for its weight and draws the eye along the finger.
What it is
An oval is a brilliant cut, like a round, stretched into an ellipse. The facets are arranged the same way, so it has the same kind of sparkle, but the outline is longer than it is wide. The length-to-width ratio is the number that defines its look: around 1.3 is soft and full, around 1.5 is long and slender.
Ovals have no corners or points, so nothing needs a V-prong, and they can be set north-south along the finger or east-west across it. Four prongs, six prongs, a bezel and a hidden halo all work.
Oval
A rounded elongated cut with brilliant faceting.
Why people love it
An oval faces up larger than a round of the same carat because more of the weight sits across the top of the stone. It lengthens the finger, it sits low and comfortable, and it still sparkles the way a brilliant should.
It is also a flexible shape. The same oval looks classic in a six-prong solitaire, modern in a bezel and a little more glamorous with a hidden halo underneath.
- Looks larger than a round of the same carat.
- Lengthens the finger.
- No corners to chip.
Trade-offs
Some ovals show a dark band across the middle, called a bow-tie. It comes from the pavilion angles and it shows in person more than in photos. Sara checks every oval for it before she suggests it.
The ratio is a matter of taste and worth seeing on the hand. Very long ovals can look thin from the side, and very short ones can read as an uneven round. There is no single right number.
- A dark “bow-tie” across the middle on some stones; Sara checks for it.
- The best length-to-width ratio is a matter of taste, usually around 1.3 to 1.5.
Who it suits
Someone who wants more size for the weight, a longer line on the finger, and a shape that still sparkles. It suits shorter fingers especially well, and it pairs easily with a straight or a slightly curved wedding band.
Sizes
| Length × width | Depth | Diamond · approx. |
|---|---|---|
| 6.0 × 4.3 mm | 2.6 mm | 0.41 ct |
| 7.0 × 5.0 mm | 3.0 mm | 0.65 ct |
| 8.0 × 5.7 mm | 3.4 mm | 0.97 ct |
| 9.0 × 6.4 mm | 3.9 mm | 1.38 ct |
| 10.0 × 7.1 mm | 4.3 mm | 1.90 ct |
| 11.0 × 7.9 mm | 4.7 mm | 2.53 ct |
Oval lengths at a 1.4 length-to-width ratio, with the width that implies and the approximate diamond weight at a typical 60% depth. Natural and lab-grown diamonds weigh the same. All figures approx.
What affects the cost
Carat weight, color and clarity drive the price first, with the cut quality close behind, because a well-cut oval without a strong bow-tie is harder to find than a well-cut round. Natural or lab-grown is the other big lever: a lab-grown oval of the same size and grade costs a fraction of the natural stone.
On the setting side, a hidden halo or pavé shoulders add small stones and setting time; a plain solitaire keeps the piece simplest. Every custom ring is quoted after the consultation.
Every custom piece is quoted after a consultation; there are no posted prices for custom work.
Care
A diamond is the hardest thing you own, but the metal around it is not. Take the ring off for the gym, the garden and anything with a bar or a rope in it, and keep it away from chlorine and bleach, which attack gold alloys over time.
Clean it at home in warm water with a drop of dish soap and a soft toothbrush, rinse, and dry with a lint-free cloth. Once a year or so, have the prongs checked. Pacific Jewel rings come back to Sara for a clean and an inspection whenever you like.
Questions
What ratio should an oval be?
Most people land between 1.3 and 1.5. The studio lets you drag the ratio and see the outline change; Sara will tell you what the stones she can source look like.
How big is a one-carat oval?
Around 7.5 × 5.5 mm at a 1.4 ratio. The same weight as a round, but a longer, larger-looking top.
What is a bow-tie?
A darker band across the middle of an elongated brilliant, where the pavilion facets reflect your own shadow. Every oval has some; a good cut keeps it faint.
Can an oval be set east-west?
Yes. Set across the finger it reads wider and more modern, and a straight wedding band sits a little further from the stone.